Walgate
We first met Ben Walgate at Tillingham in Peasmarsh in the Summer of 2021. Almost three years on, we wanted to catch up and hear the next chapter.
You told us about your early career and route to Tillingham in RyeZine No.1; what happened next?
Ben. A lot has happened since our first chat, and the journey continues. Tillingham was a very important chapter in my life: the combination of years of intention and working towards a specific goal of a way of farming and winemaking that I felt was a robust model for how to not only make good wine but also reimagine what a farm could look like.
Leaving Tillingham comes with a lot of sadness. However, I am proud of what was created there and want that legacy to prosper. I gave it my all, but it was time to move on: I needed to move on. I learned a lot from my time there, and The Winery Rye and my new eponymous wine brand, Walgate, represent the next stage. Informed by everything pre-Tillingham and Tillingham, I feel in a much better place.
You mentioned thinking Tillingham was for life, had you entertained the idea of moving on?
Ben. Winemaking-wise, I had a plan, and the wines I recently launched represent a big step forward, which is fitting now that they have my name on them! At Tillingham, I pushed the winemaking to the edge to find out what was possible. Some years, I made as many as 27 wines, plus ciders, on top of everything else. I learned a tremendous amount from being experimental, and in each vintage, there were wines I am exceptionally proud of,
and there might have been the odd one, which I wouldn’t have done again!
I miss the farm and the farming itself. Again, this was an area where I trialled and introduced new ideas from around the world, such as elements of Regenerative Agriculture and Diversification, which are now being more widely adopted across different types of farms and in viticulture, too. The income from the hospitality side of the business enabled the farming side of the business to take chances that most farms don’t have the opportunity to do.
“Now my focus is solely on winemaking and zeroing in on making wines which represent what is possible with English wine. That is serious reds and whites that can stand on the world stage.”
Making wine requires a significant investment in terms of both time and money. Nowhere more so in the UK, where sometimes yields are threatened by spring frosts and the cost of doing business is so high. Therefore, the pricing of the wines can be challenging; for example, my grapes cost seven times more than those of a friend who makes wine in South Africa. So naturally, my wines are already costing more to produce than very nice, drinkable wines cost to buy from the shop. My wines have to retail at around £30 to make the process worthwhile. Perception is key, changing people’s mindset about English wines, and getting the critic’s recognition is essential.
Tillingham and, before then, Gusbourne gave me a wealth of experience and, ultimately, the confidence to strike out on my own. Not everything went according to plan, but I’ve ended up where I wanted to be, and I’m happy with where I am and what the future has in store.
“While I continued making the wine, I had time to find a new winery and build my new brands, which worked out great. There is sadness there, but hallelujah, look where I am now; I have my name on my wine.”
You mentioned learning a tremendous amount from experience; can you share more about that?
Ben. Over the last three years, I’ve tried to listen to others more and to learn from my mistakes. I was so invested in Tillingham; it was everything. I lived it and breathed it but to my detriment. You have no perspective when you’re so close to something like that, especially when you live on-site. When you’re stressed, dare I say, burning out, you’re not at your best, and you make mistakes. Trying to be the vineyard manager, the winemaker, the boss, and all these other things simultaneously, and failing to realise you’re not hitting the mark and failing to ask for help can be fatal.
Without psychoanalysing myself too much, I’m one of those people who is driven by a need for acceptance, always looking for that pat on the shoulder. That, combined with an innate curiosity and epicurean nature, has been a powerful motivator, and I’ve got a lot done as a result. Ultimately, though, it’s not the acceptance of others that makes you happy; it’s being comfortable with who you are that matters.
“I’m thrilled to be here. Rye is an amazing, unique town. I love it and its history; there’s a lot to love about Rye. I was born in Grimsby, which is also a significant port, and somehow, I’ve always felt incredibly drawn to the sea.”
How did the warehouse develop into the home of Walgate Wines and The Winery?
Ben. I’d been aware of the space at Bridgepoint for a long time; I had known David and Chris at Martello (my landlord) for six or seven years prior. I also know Derek from RX Architects, who worked on the original scheme for the site (RyeZine No.6) from working on the buildings at Tillingham together.
I needed a great big warehouse to move my winemaking operation to; when I first saw it, it had simply whitewashed walls, a lovely old concrete floor with paint markings from previous tenants, and fab windows high up above the shutter, where the light at the end of day pours in. I love that we’re on the site of an old boatyard, which is perfect given Rye’s history.
Initially, I moved the wine in and set up the racking for storage. Then I started to move in the winemaking equipment. The tanks are from Italy, the barrels are from Austria, and the presses are from Slovenia.
Although it wasn’t my intention, I realised it would be crazy not to do hospitality. I was wary of taking too much on and having too much on my plate, again! I decided to start developing the bar late last year; I enlisted the help of my dear friend Tamsin Scott (RyeZine No.9). It seemed the perfect opportunity to let her do what she does: create, throw colour around, and bring some romance and atmosphere to the place.
The immediate response to the bar was incredible, and people were extremely supportive. Even in January, people kept returning when it was around 3°C inside the building, which I was very grateful for! We’ll do things a little differently next winter.
Now that summer is here, we’re busier than ever, and the outdoor area is coming to life, which is great to see.
Thinking about the bar’s future, I realise it is still in the early days, but it’s going well, with quite a lot of events ahead of us. One day, I’d like to have evenings at The Winery, where we talk about English wine and winemaking, where people can come and learn about wine, get involved with wine, and hang out. I want to build on what we’ve started.
You have also launched Walgate Wines; how’s it been received?
Ben. I’m very happy! The new wines launched in May, and it’s great to be back. I’ve had some good reviews from wine critics, the wines are getting good listings, and export orders have started to go out around the world.
I’ve been in this industry for 25 years or so, you forget sometimes how many wonderful characters are in it. I am enjoying getting back out there again, going to the wine fairs, and reconnecting with all these incredible people. Wine is like people; each one has a story to tell.
“It is always rewarding to know that a thing exists and you played a part in its creation.”
Walgate
English wines of moment and place
www.walgate.eco
@walgate.wine
The Winery
Taproom in the heart of Rye
Bridgepoint, Rock Channel, TN31 7HJ
Friday 17:00 - 22:00
Saturday 15:00 - 22:00
Sunday 12:00 - 18:00
• From RyeZine No.1, read Ben’s original article here.